Friday, April 29, 2011

Cruise around Mull...

Saturday, 16th April - Catch up)

 Well, there we all were in the Caledonian Hotel, wondering who our fellow passengers would be, and after the crew showed up, they gave us the rundown, which included the fact our luggage would be taken our to the boat first, and then us. Vicki, (the bosun), showed us life jackets whose number we should always remember, as that would be our our jacket for the rest of the cruise. Then, once suitably fitted with these jackets, we were marched across the road to the tender. (Mum, look at all the funny people with red things on them!!)

We would go out to the boat in groups of no more than about 8 people (including 2 crew?), and so some of us set off. Then we clambered aboard, to other waiting crew, who sensibly had champagne (with a strawberry in the glass) waiting for us. How civilised!

Once we were all assembled, we had the required briefing about boat-board safety, and fire exits, and toilet "etiquette". (The boat has a macerator, which deals with more solid waste, and is VERY noisy). We were shown to our cabins and settled in, and changed for dinner.
The crew were Bob (the captain), Vicki (the bosun), Paul (the Engineer), and Dougie (the Chef), and it was Dougi's job to feed us, and he did that!!!
We were to cruise out of Oban harbour for a while and then anchor in a loch, where all would be calm for our first night aboard, and dinner.

Duart Castle, the first day.
First impression was that the cabin was a bit snug, but given that the boat had been a fishing boat in another life, and refitted, they did a pretty good job. (Mental note - Do not try and turn around quickly in the bathroom, in any direction!!!)

By this stage my cough had worsened, and I was trying everything to lessen the stress, plus I was having trouble with the asthma, but we went up to dinner, and faced the assembled throng.

John and Mary, from Eastbourne (Sussex), John and Maggie, (Hackney, London), Linda (from Surrey?), Ann (Liverpool), and Barry and Judy (from near Godalming, Sussex), PLUS us Aussies!! (from Caberra, Australia)

"What a fine party we made", (sorry Ms Austen), and I later discovered that none of us knew each other, (even tho I initially thought the Johns and their 'partners' did.)
So there we were, all being a little nervous (?), and about to enjoy Dougie's food.

Langoustines (large elegant prawns), which for me were a total disappointment, and having looked forward to them for so long, they were lots of shell for little reward! Very tasty, but too much effort for so little result.
Then, a wonderful Salmon en Croute, (fresh salmon done in puff pastry), and excellent! To follow, a raspberry cheesecake, which was so good, but the beginnings of too much food.
Lee declined most desserts, but was in her element when the cheese platters emerged.

Fully sated, we retired to a quite comfortable bed, and the first night "at sea", and with no feeling whatsoever that we were floating. No rocking, no movement, no nothing!

Breakfast is to be from 7.30am, and we have that before we set off for other adventures.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Trains...

Tuesday, 26th April - (Fast forward)

Today I went back into Edinburgh to pay some money into the account of people in Sandwich, where we will stay later in the tour. (We had tried to do it on-line back home, and it worked, so I had the details saved. However, the final part requires a security number being sent to my phone number, and that can't happen because we are not at home!  We had gone in yesterday together, but discovered that even tho they didn't have a Public Holiday for Easter Monday, a lot of businesses were closed, including the banks, AND there is another Bank Holiday next Monday!)


So, off I set through the grounds of this wonderful house, through two gates and a mini woodland, towards the local train station, which is the last stop before the trains cross via the railway bridge over the Firth of Forth, before going on into Edinburgh.

I missed the train!
But, I had over twenty minutes to stand there in early morning sunshine, and took in the whole experience. There were no sounds, save for the other trains which sped through the station with no intention of stopping. There in the relative stillness, I could here birds chirping, small voices coming from the boys primary school across the road, but not much else. Then, quietly, a few locals would emerge up the stairs to the station , and then carefully cross over the tracks, and go to the only local shop which provided them with their daily newspaper, and then just as quietly come back, cross over again and go home to read what's happening in the world.


The other thing you notice is the deteriorating state of the station. Paint peeling on disused station doors, exposed wires into what was the ticket office or whatever, but NO STAFF!
You need a credit card, or you don't get a ticket. There is this very solid, very efficient machine with a touch screen, which you poke and prod, and then insert your card. The card disappears for mere seconds and almost instantly your tickets appear. One for the OUT, one for the RETURN, and the third one is your RECEIPT.

A voice from 'invisible' speakers announces the imminent arrival of your train. The train appears on time, (in my experience ALL Scotland trains are on time, very clean, and very efficient), you push the door button which opens to allow access, and you're off.
Sparkling sunshine through the windows, and a huge view of the river, far below.

If you catch the wrong train in this area, it is almost entirely your own fault! Once seated in your carriage, there are announcements about where your train is going, what the next stop will be, and when you are approaching it, and then the next announcement about the next station.
Unless you fall asleep, you cannot fail to get where you are going.

So, for something that started out as a drudge, and had to be done, I had a very pleasant morning.

Arran and on to Oban...

(Friday, 15th April - Catch up)

Next morning, after a lightish breakfast, including some of Ann's home-made marmalade, we headed for Lochranza, which is our next ferry back across to the mainland toward Oban.

We went back to Brodick which is a much better drive, with some awesome views back down onto the Firth of Clyde, then turned up north toward the top of the island. A bit twisty in parts, but a good run, and then you come down a longish hill with the view over Lochranza, with a ruined castle, lovely houses and sailing boats all around.
Still very cool morning, even at 10.00am, and this is one of the smaller ferry trips that you just turn up and go, i.e. park you car ready to roll on to the ferry, and then pay on board. There are only 17 spaces on the ferry, and if they had any larger units, even less. It only takes 20 minutes to cross to Cloanaig.
This is part of the Cock of Arran, and it's huge. Don't ask!

 The first bit of road up from the landing is one lane, with passing places, and after that the drive up to Oban is quite nice and easy.
Stopped in Tarbert on the way, which is another of those places which have coloured buildings, and it is a really pretty town. Had tea in a little cafe, and looked at souvenirs and took some photo's of a church with a really interesting "spire" bit.

Drove on up to Lochilphead and Kilmartin, and then turned down a road to Ardfern, which had notices for a cafe, and it was lunchtime.
Got some really nice pumpkin soup, and when we ordered our lunch the girl said, "No worries!". She was from Perth, W.A.

Oban is the "capital" city of the Scottish west coast, and is very interesting, with lots of large hotels and buildings clustered around the harbour. It is a main departure point for many ferries going out to Lewis and Harris, and other ports on the further islands.

We found our hotel without too much bother and it really is right on the harbour. There are about 6 parking spaces for about 49 rooms, so we had to do the pay parking thing until 6.00pm, and then make sure we also were covered by 9.00am. Thankfully the parking costs are not high, like GBP2 overnight.

Our room was in the corner overlooking the harbour, which was a bonus, and was only let down by the lumpiness of the bed. The bathroom was good, but narrow, and in their eagerness to have all the mod cons in the refurbishment, had included a heated towel rail, which was set so hot as to be untouchable!
Dinner was at a restaurant I had seen on line and we settled for a shared pizza and some beer, More than enough!

We then had to think of what we would be taking on board the small cruise. We knew it was meant to be casual, but also had no idea of the other passengers and that perhaps our idea of casual might be different.
Needn't have bothered as we all fitted in quite well. (see later posts)

(Saturday, 16th April)
Today we have to take the car to a local place to have it stored for the week we'll be away, and that proved to be so easy, and would cost us GBP40 for the week. Walked back to town, which was quicker than driving, and found the hotel we were to meet the people from The Majestic Line, and the other guests.
 Signage wasn't so good, and we waited in a different part of the hotel, only to find later that a special area was assigned for our cruise. Not a problem, and we finally found the group area, and sat and had a glass of wine.
If I thought that some of the people around us were also on the cruise, I thought it would be a very interesting mix. We were to be the only "outsiders" (i.e. non UK residents), but the cross section of accents I was hearing, indicated people from all over the UK! As it turned out a large group had sat themselves in 'our' waiting area, and they left. By then we had indicated to those others around us that we were on the cruise, and started chatting.



Not long afterwards, we met the people from the boat, and they explained how and when we would be taken out to the vessel. (Lee and I had seen it from the hotel, and it did not look big enough for even 10 people!)

Next post...

Out to the boat and away, and being nervous about new acquaintances, and would it be as good as we have both hoped...

Oban city and harbour from our hotel window.

Arran and Blackwaterfoot...

(Thursday, 14th April - Catch-up)

The crossing to Arran (pronounced are-an), was cool and a bit breezy so we stayed inside most of the way. It takes about an hour and crosses from Ardrossan to Brodick. No trouble getting off the ferry as the staff manage everything really well. (Tip for ferries: if you are one of the first on, and they indicate you put your car to the side, you well may be last off, after all the middle rows are cleared.)

Brodick is a nice little town, and is well patronised on day trips from the mainland, but now it has come under control of a different shire council, there may well be lots of changes to parking and other things, which the locals are not happy about. It had that nice unassuming country/island feel, and they fear that will go. We agree.
So, after a bad coffee, we set off around the bottom of the island, which runs around to our destination of Blackwaterfoot. Not a good idea, the road is VERY narrow, and twisty, but with scenery you can't take in because the fear of something coming around the next bend takes over and we both had to concentrate!


Blackwaterfoot itself is very nice, set on the west side of the island, facing out into Kilbrannan Sound, across which you can see Kintyre. Had nice vegetable soup in the local pub, which seemed to help my cough, which was starting to annoy both Lee and myself. Then up to the B & B, to meet two charming people. Ann is originally from Canada, and her husband is English, and they have been doing this for 12 years.
Superbly decorated, with many lovely paintings on all the walls, plus some other prints, antiques, etc.
Our room was up on the first floor and was great. We did feel at home, because the curtains were the same as in our family room at home. Lovely long room, but I would have arranged it differently, but that's just me.

We met a young man who comes from Lithuania every year to work for them. His name is Arturus, and his girlfriend is Edita, (Arthur and Edith), and he was extrememely efficient and pleasant and cheeky, so we enjoyed it when he was around. He waits tables and fixes things, and I guess Edita cooks breakfasts and helps with whatever else needs doing.
Ann asked if we wanted to eat in, and we accepted and she produced a wonderful meal of smoked salmon as entree, then either Coq au Vin or Lamb Shanks, and puddings later.


Sunset over Kintyre
Yummo, all of it, but the start of what would be a week or so of having eaten too much, so we took a walk as the sun set.

Breakfast was in a beautiful conservatory, and these appear all over the place in sizes ranging from a space for two people, up to huge areas. They mostly face the south to take advantage of the winter sun, but I think they can be very expensive, depending on the style and finish.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Ardrossan - Part Two

(Wednesday, 13th and Thursday 14th - Catch up)

One of the good things about the hotel we found, is that they have a large off-street car park, and another is, that with only 5 rooms they ask what you want for breakfast, rather than set out loads of choices, and you just come down at 7.30 and get served.


We went out to Kilwinning, where some of Lee's forebears, Barbara McBlane and William Roughead were married, and found the area of Corsehill, and a view of the large old church which was probably contemporary for their time.
Then down to Irvine, where we found the Maritime Museum, which is very interesting, but not spectacular. Still, somewhere to be out of the elements one of our few rainy days.

Also found a shopping centre for coffee, and got some money from the bank in the main street. Attractive street with some old buildings and the newer stuff, but in some cases it doesn't work. I guess it all comes down to who approves what, and whether or not the locals want it(?)

Having endured the fish and chips the night before, I checked out a Chinese Restaurant down the road. There don't seem to be many actual chinese restaurants in most towns, just hole-in-the-wall takeaways. But this one was different. Very pleasant, and quiet, and not many in, but the food was just wonderful, and cooked after you ordered, and not sitting, being kept warm. Just a bit hard getting used to a chinese man with a Scots accent!

Went down and got our tickets for the ferry tomorrow morning across to Arran. I paid for these ferry tickets in-line in December, and just needed to pick them up. No problems, but I have a memory that the man charged me for them, and I am still emailing the company about whether or not I have paid twice(?)
Leaving Ardrossan

Approaching Arran
After breakfast, got sorted and went down to the ferry terminal. This company, Calmac, is VERY efficient, and always on-time, and we had to be there in the waiting car park 30 minutes before the sailing. Not a problem, and the ferry is one of the larger ones, so once on board, for a 9.45am crossing, we could have had a cooked breakfast on board, or a drink (whisky tasting!) or anything.

Ayr, Ardossan - Part One...

(Tuesday, 12th and Wednesday 13th April - Catch up!)

This morning was cold and clear, and we set off towards Ayr and Ardrossan, (which was to be our first ferry trip departure point across to Arran). Lovely views of bays (Firth of Solway), but Castle Douglas is a town, not a castle.) Threave Castle is nearby, but you have to go across by boat, and not being too sure about it, and having not booked anything in Ardrossan, we kept going.
Wanted morning tea at Newton-Stewart, but couldn't find anything so moved on to Girvan, on some not too good roads, and in and under a great viaduct, as it came on us too quickly, and again, nowhere to stop!

Ayr is quite nice, and although we drove right into town and along a road reserved for buses and disabled cars and delivery vans, nobody yelled at us so we found an undercover carpark, and looked for some shops and coffee. Found great coffee at a franchise (Nero), and shared a panini, and had some of the best coffee so far.
Love Marks and Spencers. The quality of their cotton interlock in T-shirts and other things is excellent. Lee got some more leggings and I found some good polo shirts and a cotton jumper for the big cruise.
When we came back to the carpark we noticed a sign, which read, "This carpark is open between (hours quoted), and will be locked, Cars that remain without those hours will be locked in. Charming local saying(?)


Not a lot available at Ardossan but we found a nice hotel on the waterfront and booked for two nights, because we'd skipped on from other places, and so were ahead of ourselves for the ferry. The room was quite well done, twin beds, in an old house, of which the owner/manager person had no idea about its history. If I had a place like that, I would want to know what its previous life was! At least 12 foot ceilings, beautiful staircase, stained glass, panelling, etc., etc.
Very pleasant afternoon, so we had a long walk along the seafront, and sat and looked at the water.

Trouble is, having decided to have dinner in their restaurant, we settled on fish of the day (in batter), and chips. Mistake! These huge slabs of cod (in good batter) arrived, with enough to feed a family of four! Cod is not a nice fish (at least we don't think so), and we'll avoid it again.

(Personal note: if you know you might get only a double bed, go for twin beds, especially if you are used to Queen or larger!) 

Monday, April 25, 2011

Photographs...

There will obviously be thousands by the time we've finished, but with almost every turn in the road a potential great shot, it is impossible to stop when you want to, and if you did, you would never get anywhere!!! It's only when you are stopped in a particular area, or on something like our small cruise, that you get some of these chances.
(The day we were at this part of Loch Spelve on Mull, some went ashore, and Lee and I stayed on board, enjoying the peaceful afternoon. They had a much closer look, but there emerged from the woods, a small herd of seven deer. Just magic!)


The other problem is cars, and people. They are everywhere, and  can be in every shot you want to take of anything ancient, which sort of destroys the mood. I have been taking lots of photo's of buildings and architecture, simply because the greater percentage of buildings in most of the old towns, are just stunning, with the most ornate stonework. And then there are those with turrets, and lofty places, and grand windows, and multiple chimneys.

The occasional landscape shot will often present itself, but again you have to be quick to seize the moment, or make an effort to go back and take that shot, if you get the chance.


One thing you can rely on are photo's of water, and hills fading into each other, and especially, sunsets.
Cloisters at The Abbey on Iona
And, there is still so much to see...

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Dumfries and some washing adventures...

(Sunday, 10th April and Monday 11th)
We managed getting onto/off the M6 near Gretna Green and on to Dumfries. Went into the town and found a great Visitor Information Centre, but it isn't obvious, nor on the street front.They have a system of parking where you get a parking disc from any business, rotate the wheel to show what time you parked your car, and just leave it on the dash. Parked near the river, which was flowing quite rapidly.

Found the Premier Inn OK and were a little early for the room so had a drink in the pub. They have a Sunday Roast for dinner, with a yummy slice each of beef, turkey, pork, plus Yorkshire Puddings and crispy potatoes.
Retired early again with a commitment to getting some washing done tomorrow. We got basic directions to the nearest laundry, but they wanted 10 Pounds per load, so I asked where the self-serve laundry was. After much discussion with some very nice people, with very thick, broad accents (the lady asked her male colleague to try and tell me the directions, because "I was no fair wi' the area") . So, off we went and finally found the other place, and yet another very helpful man told us how to work the machines and we went next door to a local cafe for a cuppa.
Back in the motel, we festooned the room with knickers and bras, and all things damp, because most things 
nowadays say 'do not tumble dry'.



Decided to go and look at Caerlaverock Castle, which ended up as a fascinating morning as it is so interesting, both in its situation and its history. The scene of a siege/battle with Edward I and the scots in 1200's. It has all the classic bits like moats, portcallis, thick, thick walls, but also a very interesting shape inside, in that it is triangular. The original castle was closer to the sea but started to settle in the wet ground, and so the new one was started further inland.


Had a really nice lunch of zucchini and carrot soup, plus sour dough bread. All home cooked and quite warming, as the day was a little cool. Back to the motel, and a smaller meal of just entrees. We both had breaded camembert, and then Lee had small duck parcels (like samosas ), and I had chicken skewers with a yummy sauce. Just enough, and trying to be good for later places (which wasn't going to work, but you'll have to wait for Ardrossan/ Arran and beyond, to find out that it isn't easy. I know you'll just say we should always have small, but you don't always get the chance).

Still at sea...

Don't know if any of the others passengers on our recent cruise around Mull are experiencing anything, but both Lee and I still have the feeling of being on a boat!
Just a gentle rolling feeling, but a little disconcerting to say the least.
We never get "up-chucky" sea sick, so I hope this doesn't happen after the bigger cruise in June. Still, by then we will have to think about being on a plane again.

Absolutely beautiful day here in North Queensferry (near Edinburgh), and we might have a little drive up to St. Andrews.

Will get back to the catching-up later today.