Long drive to Carlisle...

Wednesday, 11th May & Thursday, 12th May - (Catch-up)

Breakfast was in a lovely room downstairs, and although we saw only a few people having breakfast whilst we were there, Lee had seen many people walking from the hotel and across the bridge, up into the forest. 

By the time she'd stopped counting, 36 different people, all kitted out for possibly a long day in the mountain trails, had headed into the hills.

Not for me! Today was going to be a fairly long drive, but with the last 60-70 miles being on the M6, which is a major freeway running north and south. Like everywhere else, there are too many trucks on the road and I had to brake hard to avoid a large semi, overtaking other traffic on a bend!!! There was a lot of driving through here that was bendy, and narrow, and we really had to have our wits about us. After Tarbert, (another Tarbert), it widens out a lot and is easier. The drive around Glasgow is made so much easier by the excellent signage, and we had no trouble following it, and did not get a break tho until we stopped for petrol, and a coffee near the approach to Erskine Bridge, across the Clyde River. We had no previous knowledge of the bridge but it is very impressive. 

The big trick is to have something with you which tells you which road numbers and which exits you need to take, and you get plenty of warning.

The next two nights we had booked in Premier Inns and so knew what to expect, and we had been to Carlisle before on the last trip. 

We went into Carlisle city, to sort out the problem we were having with the dongle for the mobile internet.

Having done our bits of business, we headed off for Lancaster.

Beautiful stone buildings in Windemere

We had intended to turn off at Penrith but missed the turn and instead drove through the town of Kendall, and then across to the pretty town of Windemere, in the Lakes District.

Nice lunch of roasted pumpkin soup and yummy bread. The run along the road from Windermere is narrow and winding and no real views of the lakes, and house blocking the views. Some fabulous homes, but the day didn't lend itself to doing much outdoors, so we pushed on to Lancaster.

The top-up voucher we bought to sort out the dongle problem didn't work, so we went into Lancaster town and got that fixed. Then we had a walk around and found the castle, which is actually H.M. Prison!

H.M. Prison (and castle) Lancaster

Bridge of Orchy, and the mountains and Glenfinnan Viaduct...

Monday, 9th & Tuesday, 10th May - (Catch-up)

On the way to the Bridge of Orchy, it had been raining, and the spectacular scenery continued with rugger high mountains on one side and lochs on the other, with cascading waterfalls, and views of streams running fast with "white-water" sections. We saw a couple of small viaducts and realised we might have been able to take a train ride, but then you don't necessarily see the viaduct whilst you're on it!

We had tried on-line to see if we could see the Glenfinnan viaduct, which is the one that appears in the Harry Potter films, and thought it involved a long walk, etc. However, as we left the village of Glenfinnan, we came upon the area where the monument and the visitor centre are, and with no trouble at all, there was the viaduct itself! OK, we didn't get such a good view because it was raining, and you might have had to do the walk to get a better look, but at least we were able to take shots for our daughter Melanie, who loves viaducts.

Just as we had finished and were about to get in the car, a train went over the viaduct!!!

Next stop was Fort William, where we thought we'd have coffee. Found a carpark near all the shops, and wandered along. Busy place, with lots of people around, and had a nice coffee in a small cafe. Along a bit more was another one of those souvenir places, but they had some really interesting things from all over Scotland, and a vast range to choose from.

Lunch at Glencoe, and then the best majestic, awesome, magnificent scenery we've had. Just huge carved hills, all with water running down lots of formed cracks ans creeks. We were able to stop at a roadside carpark and we walked along a gravel track in dreadful weather, but it was worth it for the sound and sight of the water and mountains all around.

Bridge of Orchy Hotel (pronounced ORKY), is very nice and re-furbished, with a great guest lounge with some of the most comfortable lounges and chairs. Our room was at the back, overlooking the river, which with all the rain, ran very swiftly all night, and was even more full the next morning.

Did a lot of blogging in the lounge, and had a great dinner of venison sausages on peppercorn mashed potato.

Yet another different shower system and I couldn't make the water really hot enough. When I told the manager, she said I should have called her. I replied that I was naked at the time, (not a pretty sight), and there was no phone in the shower, She had no answer for that!

Wi-fi and the internet...

Catching up has been made easier when we stay at places which offer free wi-fi, and they freely give you the code number and away you go.

It hasn't always been readily accessible, for many reasons, one of which is the area you are in, and the other is businesses charging for its use.

For all the good basic things that you get with Premier Inn chain, they don't offer anything in the way of internet access, except a link to a company called Swisscom, and then you have to pay on-line with your credit card. It's "guaranteed" safe, and so far we haven't had any trouble (I check the bank accounts every day).

So, from here in Gloucester, we move down to Chippenham and then Bristol, and then down to Cornwall, so a warning that we might not be able to access the net every day, so be patient.

We also don't know what access we will have after the cruise leaves the UK and takes us to Iceland and Norway, so there might be some delays there as well.

Mallaig, and looking out to Muck, Eigg and Rum...

Monday, 9th May - continued... (Catch-up)

Mallaig is a hilly town, tucked into the hills like so many others, and we soon found our hotel on top of one of those hills. The West Highlands Hotel has been there a long time, and the rooms are very nice, with good facilities. We had one on the first floor, (bloody stairs again!, and I was whinging about how many there were when one of a pair of elderly ladies said to me that they (stairs) were good physiotherapy!!! 

Turned out that they and their husbands regularly go walking in remote locations and were to take a trip out to Muck, for a walk. There appear to be no designated roads for cars on Muck, so I guess they were doing it for the wilderness thing. (I suppose if you've done this all your life, it becomes second nature?)

Great view from our window and we worked out that we were looking at the islands of Rum, Eigg and Muck, and they appeared in many guises as the afternoon went by, with clouds and mist and sunshine and finally some sunset colour.

We discovered our room was booked as a Dinner/Bed/Breakfast, so we were offered three courses for dinner. We never really eat three courses, but had an entree, and then a main, but shared a cheese platter.

Good sleep, and a lovely morning in the dining room for breakfast, but the weather wasn't good, so after we paid up and packed up in the rain, we headed off for what was to be a fabulous run, in terms of scenery, through the Glencoe pass, and the mountains. We had rung ahead and got a room at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel.

On the way, we stopped for lunch at Glencoe village, and got some souveniry things.

Weather was still a bit rainy and we had to use the wipers most of the day, but the scenery is just magnificent, as you can see from the next post...

Uig and Skye and Eilean Donan...

Monday, 9th May - (Catch-up)

Portree

Our first introduction to Skye was Uig, with very pretty though small, white buildings, and one or two pubs. We didn't stop as the weather wasn't that good, and we wanted to go and find the castle, and still leave time to do the small crossing from Armadale to Mallaig.

Skye is very scenic, with a short run along the edges of the loch and then up into incredible mountains, and with more mountains appearing at every turn. Thankfully we were able to stop and get some photo's. Stopped at Portree for coffee, which is a lovely town with a square and some interesting streets, and a view down to the wharf, with yet more coloured buildings.

Then we came to Broadford, which is spread out and on the water, with lots of great scenery out over Raasay and Scalpay.

We'd heard a lot about the Skye Bridge, and it is impressive, and steep with a high arch up and over.
Then you come down to the flat part and on and around towards Eilean Donan Castle, along the loch on one side and mountains on the other, and after about 8 or 9 miles, there it is!

Not a good shot, but it gives you and idea.

You can easily see it from the road, and the carpark is easy. This is so well done, and the castle is just amazing from every angle. The weather was inclined to be on and off showers, so out came the waterproofs. There is a charge to see the castle, and we got Seniors rates. 

It has been rebuilt from ruins in the 1700's, and again in the early 20thC by descendants of the original family.

The whole thing is so well done and you do a self-guided tour, so you have time to stop and take it all in.

Later we moved on back over the bridge, and down to Armadale, which is a very pretty little ferry station. There are a few crafty shops, one of which is a bit too cute for its own good, and with outrageous prices. Next to the wharf is a very small cafe, in which we had a really nice lunch of scampi and salad, which included a really tasty scoop of "pearl barley cous cous salad". Yummy, with a definite Moroccan flavour.

Tarbert and the crossing to Skye...

Sunday, 8th May - continued - (Catch-up)

Moving on from the stones, the drive down to Tarbert on Harris is quite rugged and spectacular. Went past Loch Seaview, and saw some waterfalls coming down the steep slopes from overnight rain.

The run down to the sea is very reminiscent of the area around Ullapool, but then you come upon an oasis of trees and a sheltered area where our hotel was.

 We had booked this hotel ahead, and our room wasn't ready so we had a nice cuppa in one of their lounges, which overlooks their beautiful garden. The hotel has been in the family for a long time, and they are very helpful and friendly. This was to be one of our "expensive" nights, (balanced by quite a few more reasonable ones), and we were given a beautiful room looking out to the garden. 

Dinner that night was in the hotel, (they had rightfully assumed we would do so, as there isn't much else in the town), and gave us five pounds per person off our bill because we were not having breakfast, but eating on the early ferry.

We later took a run to the other side of the area, which was a big mistake as far as roads are concerned, but some of the views across the water were just great.

Later, we did the required walk down to the town and found out where we had to take the car in the morning, and then had a wine in our room (surprise!)

Whilst we were sitting there, with the window open, (no flies), I suddenly realised I could hear a cuckoo!

Quick as a flash I got out my voice recorder and managed to get some of the sound. Just magic, cause we don't have them in OZ.

Dinner was really nice with all the things I like, such as white tablecloths, silver cutlery, nice wine glasses, plenty of space, and good food. Lee had some really nice roast beef with veg, and mine was Loin of Pork, with a wonderful sauce made from apple juice and mustard and cream!
Then we both had a very nice strawberry dessert, but I spilt the juice down the front of a light blue polo shirt!! Good one Gordon.

(We are paying for all the nice food and the lack of regular exercise. Oh well!)

I should take room photo's BEFORE we move in and trash them!!!


We had to be down at the ferry by 6.30am, and all was OK, and again the efficiency of the Calmac team kicks in and we all boarded on time, and we had a small breakfast on board.


This crossing was not a smooth one, with some wind and some swells, and not a good one for going out on deck. Lee had a sore eye, which had become bloodshot, so we stayed indoors for the 2 hour crossing to Uig. (pronounced "you-ig")


Next time... our favourite Castle, and another small ferry ride to Mallaig

The Western Isles - Part Two...

Sunday, 8th May - (Catch-up)

Lewis and Harris are NOT islands! There is no water separating them. Jim, the owner of the B/B told us that the division is purely Religious, and that most of Lewis is Protestant, and Harris is Catholic.

Lee tried the local Black Pudding at breakfast, (I can't stand it), and we had all day to get down to Tarbert, on Harris, for the next ferry trip back to the mainland and Skye.

 Thought we wanted to see a few of the local ancient or historic sites, but even tho you can get to them, because it was Sunday, all the visitor centres attached were closed. Still, we had an interesting time at a Black House, which gives an idea of how they lived in ancient times. It was a shame not to be able to see inside, but you can still smell the smoke from the fires that were lit inside the dwellings. They were simply black from the smoke and the soot.

Then we went on to The Gearrannan - Blackhouse Village, which sits above a small cove, and was only vacated in the middle 1970's. They have thatched roofs, lashed down with rope and heavy rocks, and look quite cosy, (some of the doors were open and we think they are rented out to holiday makers, and seem to have plumbing, etc. You'd pay heaps of money to have a holiday site like this, overlooking a beach etc.)

The next stop was to find and see the Callanish Standing Stones, and the day lent itself to the mystique and eeriness of the site. Again, the visitor place was closed, but we could still walk up to see them. They are all the eerie moody things you imagine, and the rocks are so worn and eroded from the weather. Our photo's don't really capture it well, but the silence all around made it very atmosphoric. Then the rain hit and we had to scramble back to the car for shelter.

There were other groups of stones nearby, and you can see them quite plainly from the car. If not for the weather, we would have spent much more time here.

These two larger photo's were taken within minutes of each other, and how the "mood" changes.

Out to the Western Isles...(Part One)

Saturday, 7th May - (Catch-up)

Today we left Aviemore, and had to get to the ferry at Ullapool. We were advised to leave two hours, but knowing us we left at around 7.00am, and the road is very good and you have to divert a little at Inverness, and go over the bridge at the Forth of Moray.

Very pleasant run, and you come down the hill into Ullapool, which again is one of the many harbour towns, nestled into the cliffs/hills behind the town. 

The ferry people are so well organised and we quickly found a huge parking area where they check your tickets, and have you put your car in a queue line, ready for going onto the ferry. Then, if you have the time and have arrived early as we did, you get wandering time to have a look at the village.

There wasn't much to see, but we found postcards in a huge touristy shop. Some of the shots on these cards are often better than we will be able to take, and so Lee puts them into our album when we come home.

This ferry is quite large and once on, you then get lots of space to either find a seat indoors or wander about on the deck with other passengers (and their dogs!), and take in the scenery.

Leaving Ullapool for Stornaway (Lewis), is just magic. We had a good day with some sun and cloud, but the ferry passes through and by so many changes in the landscape/watercape, it is just stunning.

Our photo's won't do it justice, but there was a 'professional' on deck with all his lenses and whatever, and he would have gotten some great shots.

The day was good and we had a trip of about two and three-quarter hours, so plenty of time to relax and take it all in. The other end is just as efficient and you go down to your car at the announced time and then just drive off to your new adventure. There were caravans, campervans, pushbikes, walkers, you name it.

The ferry took about 90 minutes to get out past all the islands and headlands, and as we went further out, more and more distant mountains kept appearing behind those we could already see.

We had lunch on the ferry and both had beef and ale pie with great chips as a side. I asked the man from the kitchen what they used, and he simply said they only used vegetable oil, but because they did so many chips, they changed the oil very regularly.

We had seen a number of watercolours in our rooms at Aviemore, by an artist called Anthony Barber, and his stuff is just wonderful. It turned out he now lives on Lewis, up at a place called Point Ness, which is the furthest north we will have been in Scotland so far.

So after we landed, we decided to drive straight up to Point Ness, and come back and check in to the B & B later.

Point Ness is a beautiful area, with a beach Australia would be proud of. If it wasn't so early in the season I would have gone in for a swim.

The gallery (see the link), is a small one above the beach, and we had a very pleasant talk to the artist, which is great to be able to do. Would have loved to buy an original, but it would have proved too hard to get back home.

After that we drove back to Stornaway, to try and find our B & B, but got hopelessly lost and had to phone the guy and get better directions

Island of Lewis is quite different to anywhere we've been before. There are little houses everywhere, but there seems to have been no 'plan' whatsoever to where they have been built.
We gathered from someone we spoke to that people just got a piece of land, and built a house. But the randomness of their placement is quite pronounced. Some are clustered together to almost make a small hamlet, but you come across a little white house in the middle of nowhere. Also the fact that there are none, or very few trees, tends to make them stand out.

Beach at Point Ness

And, why are most of the houses in Scotland painted white?? You would think that in Australia, we would use the colour white to reflect the heat, but there isn't the same sort of heat, and you get snow as well. We also saw lots of peaty moors, and even some examples of people still gathering the peat, and turning it over for drying, to use as a fuel in winter. Apparently they are allotted an area to work, and can't take any more.

We had also gone out to the lighthouse on the Butt of Ness, which then became the most northerly place we have been in the UK.

Peat 'farming'

Fascinating outlook, and steep cliffs dropping to rocks and ocean below, and no signs of any kind, warning of the dangers of nearing the edge!

However although we were looking out at the Atlantic Ocean, it was so calm, it could have been Port Phillip Bay in Melbourne.


On the way back we went and found an ancient sight which we thought might be standing stones, but it was just a ancient site of a house(?), and a stone circle.

Got a little lost in trying to find the B & B, and had to phone the owner. Eventually got there, and had a nice room on the first floor with a view over Sandwick Bay. Nice meal down at a local hotel, and were informed that very little if anything would be open tomorrow, (Sunday), as they close the lot down for long-time religious reasons. We were told that in years past even the local children's play park was locked on Sundays!!

Lee and the tree...

For all you horticultural friends, we meant to show you the shot of Lee at Blair Castle, under an Abies procera (The Noble Fir). If you think you've seen big conifers, check this out!!!

The Cairngorms and Aviemore...

Saturday, 30th April, to Saturday, 7th May - (BIG Catch-up)

After leaving Blair Castle, the road up to Aviemore is quite spectacular (what part of Scotland isn't?), and not a bad drive either. The signage generally is excellent in the UK, and you really get a feel for the way things happen, and so we haven't had tooooooo many wrong turns.

Lee had by this time started to feel the effects of whatever she caught from me, plus some sinus problems, so thankfully we were to have a week in the same place. This was the Time-Share week we had arranged from OZ, and it isn't too bad. We found out it has been functioning since the late 70's, and it shows in some of the furniture, which is all pine, and has been re-furbished/re-finished to take it back to its natural state. They don't seal it and they said they have 'special' cleaners which remove things like red wine, etc.

Still, we were now able to do meals for ourselves, and get some washing done. The town itself has been there some time, but has grown to be a town that services the walkers, hikers, skiers, canoeists, etc. etc. Basic food stuff like Tesco's (think Coles or Woolies), and a plethora of restaurants, but by now we were very happy to do our own thing, and the kitchen was quite well equipped. Flat screen TV, and a small balcony, but we faced out on to the main road which goes to Inverness, and so the double glazed windows and doors really come into their own.

With Lee not too well, we only did a couple of things, like taking a short drive out to the funicular, which is a cable type railway up to a stunning lookout, on one of the highest mountains in the area. The views are just great, (think, above Perisher towards Charlotte's Pass). and some remnant snow from the winter season.
The wooden fences are arranged to catch the snow drifts, so the mountain staff can then 'groom' the snow for the skiers.

Quite a nice morning and we seem to have perfected the trick of being at places at the right times, e.g. get there early and avoid the masses.

This "Nessy" is attached to rubber dinghys and they must float him out for special occasions

The only other things we did were a really pleasant cruise on Loch Ness (no monster!), which allows a look at yet another ruined castle called Urquhart Castle, and the we did a train ride into Inverness city, which allows a different view of the countryside, but it was raining a little and so we just had a small look at the town, got a couple of things at the shops and went back to Aviemore. 


We had to leave very early on the Saturday, to get to Ullapool for the ferry across to Lewis and Harris islands. (They are not really islands as there is no waterway between them, but that is another post...

Ullapool is at least two hours away from Aviemore, and we had to have checked in for the ferry by 9.30am.

Loch Ness

I'm late, I'm late...

If there is anyone out there following this blog and thinks I've just stopped. Wrong!!

We are now in a very small village in Wales called Berriew, and today have come down from Bangor, after seeing our friend David. We had a long, and very emotional day with him and his wonderful wife Gwenda, and she is trying to cope with the final days. Lee and I don't think he will make it past the end of this week, but who knows?

It was so good to be able to see him, even in the state he's in, (the cancer is now in his liver), and glad that he hung on for so long to see us. He wants to "go", but is  naturally concerned about his own family. He also asked, (as he has done for years now), how Melanie and her family, and Jeremy are coping.

So, a small sad part of the trip, which is now behind us, and it was heart-wrenching to say goodbye, but so glad we came.

We were able to make the short run down to Caernarfon after leaving Bangor, and visited the castle. Wow, what a place, and so grand and castellated, and turrety, and with hidden passages and rooms. It's all a huge ruin, but so worth seeing. Photo's to follow in another post. 

On a brighter, but frustrating note...the reception for the email and phone and internet was very bad in the area we were in, but we hope to catch up today and tomorrow.